Whether it is discussing the finer points of existentialism in a now smoke-free Parisian café or scaling the heights of Le Cent Quatre 104, the French capital is not just for lovers, even if there is an accordion playing at every park corner. This romantic, elegant, art-laden, fashionable city has everything from haute couture to basement jazz clubs, so you're unlikely to run out of things to do and places to explore.

Paris and London seem to becoming quite alike these days. Apart from having a similar cost of living, the public transport is essentially the same and London is also likely to implement a City-wide bike scheme. Both cities have oodles of history and a great big river running through the centre. Perhaps it is not surprising they’re so similar; after all they’re practically neighbours now that the Eurostar has cut the journey time to a few nanoseconds. What might come as a surprise is just how bureaucratic the Parisian authorities can be, although as a trainee much of the burden will be lifted by the provision of a company flat. The summer is usually the quietest time to visit the French capital as half its inhabitants leave town in August. Unfortunately the tourists come in their place so there will still be long queues at the major museums. Of all the months of the year, one of the best has to be May, when the city carries springtime beautifully and the roads are not swamped by tourists.

Work: The legal market in France is one of the largest in Europe, competing with the likes of the UK, Spain and Belgium for a tasty piece of the commercial tarte. Most of the foreign firms in France have put down roots in Paris, which has around 40% of the country's lawyers and three-quarters of the turnover generated by legal services. The Paris legal scene was heavily dependent on M&A and the recession has heavily dented activity levels. Many international firms noted a significantly reduced workload in M&A, acquisition and financial transactions, though most have remained confident that there is enough restructuring and litigation work to keep them going. This is particularly noteworthy given that more than half of the top 20 firms in the country are from the USA or UK, with stalwarts like Clifford Chance having been a dominant force for over 50 years. Some put the success of the Anglo-Saxon firms down to its “unique ability to advise on large, complex and sophisticated work” and “the consistent branding among the offices.” Don’t get too patriotic at this point though: most of the lawyers at these firms are actually French.

Several of the domestic firms have become hugely significant players on the international scene too: for example, Gide Loyrette Nouel won a French M&A instruction from defence company EADS, beating out Clifford Chance for the coveted role. Paris-based Bredin Prat also tasted success having been taken on as lead legal counsel on a private equity powerhouse’s multibillion-dollar public offering. While much of the high-end corporate work has dried up, the energy and projects sector has maintained a steady ascent, particularly in relation to Africa (where several French corporations have active interests in both the Anglophone and Francophone regions). One trainee described their time on African projects as “a plus for my personal experience out there.” Real estate activity, meanwhile, fell sharply in the past year, however the law firms were able to take advantage of France’s new legislation encouraging businesses to file for US-style Chapter 11 bankruptcies. Furthermore, being the centre of the ICC International Court of Arbitration, Paris also hosts major arbitrations.

Trainees who end up in Paris take corporate seats and possibly also encounter asset finance, capital markets or international arbitration. Tasks included due diligence and document management, and we just loved the story about a trainee required to deliver a big load of documents - “He had all the documents in a backpack and he looked like he was backpacking around Southeast Asia!” A seat in Paris may also involve far more client contact than expected, and one trainee spoke nonchalantly of shuttling between the English and French capitals for client meetings. Another told us they found the additional responsibility they were given character-building: “I’m kind of making my own path and perhaps making it for future trainees too.” A third speculated that since “the French system, doesn't have a trainee equivalent you are regarded more as an associate there.” Paris’ strength in arbitration impressed our sources, who said: “The quality is second to none – you have to get inside your client’s head and work out what they’re fighting for.” In presenting arguments, trainees were encouraged to “read around” particular subjects to get the right result. “The partner definitely took on board what I had to say and I had a good relationship with him.”

In saying this however, some felt that when times were quiet that mundane jobs dominated. “Translation was 85% of what I did and there was no legal work at all,” moaned one grumpy source. As you can probably tell, French speakers are at a massive advantage and speaking the language really helps in social settings too - “It’s generally good just from a bonding perspective.” Most firms will offer trainees language classes before they cross the Channel. “People really appreciate it if you make the effort to speak French and it’s easier if you already have some level in it,” said one source. Another told us: “My French improved immeasurably… my colleagues even commented on my improvement.” And finally, just because the French are among the best at dispensing holidays doesn’t mean you won’t be working hard. “People definitely put in the hours in Paris.”

Rest and play: According to our sources, trainees’ apartments scrub up very nicely. “Mine was gorgeous,” said one source, adding that “it feels like I’m in Versailles Palace here and Champs Elysyees is just around the corner.” Even if you’re not in the palace of your dreams, you’re guaranteed to be a hop, skip and a jump away from your office. “My place was bang in the centre and just a five-minute walk through the park.” Actually, walking in Paris has become so passé; biking is the new black with free two-wheelers available pretty much everywhere in the central districts. With your new bike you can tour the natural landscapes by the River Sienne or take in the youthful and student-filled Latin Quarter. Apart from doing the obvious - checking out the classics in the Louvre or the impressionists at the Orsay - you can catch a glimpse of new-world Paris. Try the Hammam de la Grande Mosquée where you can have a steam session and massage. You can even compare the markets in Marché aux Puces de Clignancourt and Marché d'Aligre to their London parallels in Brick Lane and Camden Lock.